Homelite super xl 12 manual

Thank you so much for taking your time and knowledge to support my concerns. Find great deals on ebay for homelite xl automatic. Rca G Repair. Do you own, or have you used this product? To california it s probably 65 but i ll pay the difference. Homelite super xl, old blue,sxl, xl12, xl, molded fuel line with filter quality reproduction ships quickly from the usa check price on amazon.

Wonderful prices on homelite chainsaw and other relevant listings. Even though the homelite xl chain saw is an older model machine, it still comes equipped with an automatic oiler that disperses oil from the tank to the channel and groove in the guide bar. My favorite saw thus far is probably a orange homelite super xl auto.

Can i use modern synthetic oil at 50, 1? Technologies have developed, and reading homelite super xl 12 manual printable books might be far more convenient. A the automatic oiler output is according to the speed of the engine. Find great deals on ebay for homelite super xl automatic. A bad chainsaw chain can turn into a serious problem if it flies off the bar or simply puts you in a spot where your saw has quit but the project is dangerously incomplete.

Homelite ps33 chainsaw operators manual, he has created it, ' salman learned. They are potentially dangerous. The saw can be replaced and you cannot!

Pick your escape route or routes in case the intended route is blocked. Clean the immediateareaaround the tree, and make sure there are no obstructions in your planned path of retreat. And the cuts of the notch are made so they intersect at a right angle to the line of fall. This notch should be cleaned out to leave a straight line. To keep the weight of the wood off the saw always make the lower cut of the notch before the uppercut.

We illustrate acommon notch made with a horizontal cut and an angular cut above it. Consider the factors of wind direction and speed, the natural lean and the balance of the tree, and the location of large limbs. These things influence thedirection in which the tree will fall. Do not try to fell a tree along a line different from its natural line of fall until you have had considerable experience in felling trees which present no problem as to where they will fall.

Take into consideration whether the trunk is sound or so rotted inside as to snap and crash while being cut. In tight situations where a mistake in the direction of fall could ruin other trees or destroy property, attach a tether line to the tree as illustrated.

The backcut is always made level and horizontal and at a minimum of 2 inches 51mm above the horizontal cut of the notch. You must never cut through to the notch.

Always leave a band of wood uncut between the notch and back cut. If the tree starts over in the wrong direction, or if the saw getscaught or hung up during the fall, leave the saw and save yourself! On large diameter trees, it is proper to stop the back cut before it is deep enough for the tree toeither fall or settle back on the stump.

Then soft wooden or plastic wedges not hard metal are inserted behind the saw so they do not touch the chain. The wedges can bedriven in, little by little, to help jack the tree over. Trees larger than the saw can cut in one cut, can be both notched and back-cut in a series of cuts, as illustrated.

Start the notching cuts from one side and draw the saw through to the other sideof the notch. Start the back cut on one side of the tree, pivoting the saw through to form the desired hinge on that side. Then remove and reverse the saw for the second cut. Insert the saw in the first cut, very carefully soasnotto cause kickback, and cut back toward and around the back of the trunk.

Complete the back cut by cutting towards the notch to complete the hinge section. All standard felling techniques apply to leaning trees except as follows: 1.

Make the directional control face notch shallower than usual. Make shallow notches on both sides of the tree to cut through the outer layer sapwood. Now make your back cut to leave a parallel hinge. NOTE Insert your felling wedges i n the back cut. Remove the saw before tree is ready to fall and drive the wedges in to fell the tree. Place your wedges in the back cut between the backcenter and the narrow side of the hinge. Drive in the wedges to force the tree over in the direction desired.

Saw chain is identified by a number stamped on either its tie-straps or its drive links. Whichever of these chains you choose in replacement, be sure to use our sprocket and drum assembly AA which fits both types. You will also need a depth gauge tool. And, do all of your filing at the mid-point of the bar. Wear gloves for protection.

Be sure to file all cutters to the same length. This must be done because of the taper of the teeth; if some cutters are shorter than others only the longer cutters will get a chance to cut. Also be careful to file all cutters to the specified angles, as fast cutting can be obtained only when all cutters are uniform. Each cutter then gets a chance to cut. Hold file against cutter face at a35O angle.

It is marked on the holder. Keep the file level with the tooth top plate. Do not let file dip or rock. File in one direction only - towards front cornerof the tooth.

Move file away on the return stroke. Use light but firm pressure, mostly towards back of tooth. Avoid heavy downward pressure. This will produce the desired beveled hollow-ground under-edge automatically.

Put a few firm strokes in every tooth, filing all cutterson one side, then those on the other side of the chain. Rotate file in holder occasionally. Examine your filing job in strong light.

A sharp edge will not reflect light and a dull edge will. However, sharpening does not alone make a good cutting tooth. An abraded tooth, for instance, may still not cut until you have removed the worn or rounded off portion of the steel so that the sharp cutting edge is the highest part of the chain. And, then toadjust all cutters to the same length. As this may be tedious to do by hand-filing, consider having it done by your servicing dealer on an electric grinder.

Producing rough-cutting. Caused by excessive downward filing pressure, or tip of file held too low on tooth. Back Slope Chain resists entering wood.

Scrapes instead of cutting. Causes excessive heat and wear to bar and chain. Caused by lowering handle end of file or holding file too high on tooth. Drag will slow down engine. Caused by letting filing angle or pressure vary from tooth to tooth, or filing one side of chain differently from the other.

Thin Feathered Edges When they almost immediately break off, you have a dull chain. Caused by pressing down too hard on file. Improper Top Plate Angles Blunt angle requires too much feed pressure to cut. Too sharp an angle causes binding. Produces a rough cut, robs power from saw, and increases bar wear. Caused by holding file at wrong angle or letting it drift or rock during the stroke.

Scrapes wood, robs power, and produces dust instead of chips. Caused by holding file too high on face of tooth. Every second or third time the teeth are sharpened, or if a large amount of steel is removed from the cutters, the depth gauge should be checked for correct depth. Use a depth gauge tool and a flat file. Fit the tool over the chain so that the slotted end points towards the bar nose and the depth gauge pr0jec. File the depth gauge flush with the top of the tool.

File all gauges to this height. If the gauges are too high, the chain teeth will not get a good bite. If too low, the teeth will take too large a bite, causing the chain to grab and jerk. If some gauges are higher than others, the chain will cut off line, favoring the side having the lowest gauges.

As the chain and sprocket wear together, they both will change in pitch. Therefore, it is a good idea to always change the sprocket and drum assembly whenever you are installing a new chain. Otherwise the old sprocket will wear down the new chain and you will have lost some of the life of your new chain.

You can tell by the wear pattern whether the sprocket needs replacement. The clutch drum, sprocket and clutch should be removed only by an authorized Homelite serviceman or dealer, as servicing must be done properly with great care. When a sprocket and drum are replaced, all clutch parts should be checked by your dealer.

The replacement sprocket and drum assembly includes a new grease-packed needle bearing and inner race, and a new retaining ring.

We sell a grease-packed needle nose lube gun as part D for sprocket nose bars. The replacement sprocket A for Power Tip bars comes assembled and lubricated on a shaped mount which you can use to slide the assembly into the bar nose. When the sprocket is positioned in the bar nose, use the rivets in the kit to peen the sprocket assembly into place.

This distributes the wear for miximum bar life. The bar should also be cleaned everyday of use and checked for wear and damage. Feathering or burring of the bar rails is a normal process of bar wear. But these burrs should be smoothed with a file or stone as soon as they occur, because they slow down your cutting.

Also check that the bar rails are parallel of equal height. If not, file or grind them parallel. Pinched rails can be opened by carefully prying them apart with a screwdriver. It comes from too little chain tension and permits the chain to flop over sideways.

But compound twistsorsharp bends call for replacement. The lubricant in the sprocket nose of a Power Tip bar in the XL length class is expected to last for the life of the nose sprocket under normal conditions of use.

However, the grease can be changed by pumping through the small lube hole in the bar nose with a needle nose grease gun. But as long as the nose sprocket turns smoothly, we advise retaining the original lubricant.

Because, once you change thegrease you must re-lube on a daily basis thereafter. Regular maintenance should be performed every 50 operating hours or once a year. It consistsof changing the fuel pick-up filter in the fuel tank, and cleaning the orifice and the screen type pick-up filter in thechain oil tank.

These instructions include troubleshooting because the pick-ups can become clogged any time sawdust enters the tank. Flush out the tank with clean fuel. The flow of oil may be blocked either at the pick-up or at the discharge. Flush out the oil tank.

Clean the oil discharge hole in the guide bar mounting pad. Pick or blow clean the screen of the pick-up filter. And if the saw has an orifice in the pick-up line, be sure this is open, but do not put anything through the orifice that would enlarge its metering capacity. When it clogs up, the saw will smoke excessively and lose power. The filter should be changed when dirty, but in an emergency, can be cleaned in detergent and water or a cleaning solvent and allowed to dry.

The normal life expectancy of the element is lot hours of operation. However, extremely dirty operating conditions may cause the filter to clog in four or five hours. You should keep some spares on hand for quick-changing.

The carburetor isan all-position, diaphragm type having a factory-calibrated, high-speed mixture system for proper high speed performance. It has two adjustments which may require adjustment from time to time to achieve the desired idling characteristics. The first adjustment is the idle speed screw. This screw is used to adjust the idle speed. It does this by holding the throttle shutter partly open to let fuel and air be drawn through the carburetor for idling.

The second adjustment is the idle mixture adjustment needle. This needle adjusts the amount of fuel to get the correct mixture required for idling. Always clean or change the air filter before attempting any carburetor adjustment. Refer to the illustrations. Use the slot at the top of the back plastic filter cover to pry off the cover. Clean the area around the filter before removing filter.

Fit clean filter in place carefully. Before operating, reinstall plastic cover as follows: Start cover on by putting choke lever through the slot and placing tabbed bottom and rear edges into position.

Press cover into place. Then idle the saw and make the following adjustment: 1. Turn idle mixture needle slowly in one direction, then the other. Leave set where the engine idles the fastest. If this idle speed is too slow, the engine will falter. Turn the idle speed screw slowly clockwise to increase the speed until the engine n o longer falters at idle.

If the speed in Step 1 is so fast that the chain rotates rapidly, or takes too long to stop rotating after the engine is throttled back to idle, turn the idle speed screw counterclockwise until the chain stops turning but no slower than this setting. What you have done in the above steps is to adjust the throttle for the proper idle setting, and then adjust the mixture for that setting.

Any time you adjust the idle speed, always readjust the idle mixture needle for the best mixture as in Step 1. Adjustment for Starting 1. No adjustments are required for starting a cold engine at full throttle trigger depressed or for operating.

Adjustment for proper idle speed and mixture may be required if a hot or warm engine cannot be started at idle throttle or if the engine idles roughly or refuses to accelerate. Carburetors of saws which bear this circular sticker have had the standard circuit plate replaced with a high altitude plate for optimum performance at high altitudes. If changing back to standard plate, remove the high altitude sticker from the saw. The starter has few parts and can be disassembled and repaired under field emergency conditions,as when the rope breaks.

Remove the guide bar and chain. Remove the plastic air filter cover. Note the rounded notch in the edge of the pulley. Pull out thegrip about one foot and hold the pulley from rewinding. Turn the pulley to locate the notch at the rope entry hole in the housing. Hook up a loop of rope between the housing and the pulley. Grasp the loop and wind one turn tension or more if necessary in a clockwise direction.

Hold pulley from turning. Pull the rope back out through the hole. To replace starter rope or repair starter spring: Unscrew the starter screw and remove the flat washer.

Grasp the toothed pulley hub and pull the pulley out of position about a half-inch or the width of your finger. Using a thin bladed screwdriver, insert it between the pulley and the housing to free the pulley from the spring.

Push the spring coils intothe housing. They are relatively difficult to rewind. Replace the recoil spring if broken or bent. If the inner spring loop has been straightened so that it does not engage the pulley, bend in the whole loop carefully until it is curved enough that the end can engage the pulley. Integrally-banded replacement springs are installed by hooking outer end in housing notch as illustrated and pushing coils into housing.

Many of these models are still in use today. All XL chainsaw engines are lubricated with a combination of unleaded gas and two-cycle engine oil, mixed at a to-1 ratio.

The information contained in these manuals will allow to service your own chain saw and save time and money. The recommended to-1 fuel mixture includes 2. Homelite recommends using their brand of oils, specifically designed to work in any model with a to-1 fuel ratio. Mix fuel at a ratio of to-1, which is 8 ounces of two-cycle oil and 1 gallon of gas, and add an antioxidant fuel stabilizer, when using oil that does not contain fuel stabilizer.