What is your 'usual' methods of additiving and warming your tires - both indoor and out. And what are your current recommended additives again for both indoor and out? For outdoors I recommend Tyre Tweak for most type of tyres and tracks, this with tyre warmer for about 20min on 60 degree.
My questions would be when you guys get to a track, do you have a usual method which you try to setup your car with? Do you have a base setup?
What kind of "feel" do you look for in your car? The whole winter we had a decent basic set-up which works at all track pretty oke. So when you come to a race we don't worry about any set-up changes till the track has the same bite as it will be for the race. Normally we only play with shockoil, indoor this is between If the car traction rolls we make it wider on the hex.
It sounds easy but actually with this car it is easy to have the right pace all the time. Did you notice a difference going from the to the WE? Do you switch back and forth between the 2 or is there an advantage of one over the other on certain tracks? The main different between the and the WE is the chassis and topdeck. I choose for the WE chassis as the battery is little more forward which makes the car easy to drive. We all used the old topdeck with the brace to get the rear a little stiffer for better rotation.
So yes we play a lot with both chassis. Whoose shock oil do you use? Is it Tamiya's or another brands? And also, the ratio At the LRP we all used 3. I run the timing between b and c. Maybe 4. When you use Speed Passion speedo you can run timing in the middle with 3. Can you explain further on what you mean by "easy to drive" with more weight forward?
Eg - less turn-in, more mid corner or exiting steering or a combination of things? With the WE chassis the battery is more forward which makes the car smoother and easier to drive, less steering. When you use 5 cell try to drive the battery in the back and you will feel the car rotates way to much mid corner and exiting the corner.
Battery more forward will keep the rear more stable mid and exit which drives more easy. Are we right in thinking some of the TRF guys were running more Ackerman spacers than the usual 5mm with spool in Poland?
I got a little question for the shocks: What length do you run your shocks? We always run the shock See you in Luxembourg! I don't have any setup questions since I have found that car setup is something you have to work out yourself since everybody drives their cars very differently. I do have some specific questions about the TRF chassis, however, that you may have some suggestions about: 1. I think most people have found that when we build the we have to add quite a few shims to the direct center shaft before putting the flanged bearings on and fitting it into the bulkheads.
For example I have to add four or five 4x0. How much do you guys have to add, and do you keep it equal on each side of the shaft or do you add more to one side? In the rear diff the diff balls are partially exposed, and running outdoors on asphalt the diff attracts a lot of dirt and hence requires frequent rebuilds. I currently use a small sheet of clear vinyl as a diff cover, but since it only sticks to the outside of the diff pulley they don't last long and more often than not come off.
The same is true of the Tamiya diff covers: there just is not enough area for the covers to stick to and last more than a few runs.
Do you have any tips on how to somehow protect the diff and keep it clean? Obviously parts wear out as time goes by, but I have to constantly replace the swring shaft protectors or C-clips that you put on the rear swing shafts before putting then into the diff halves.
For me they wear out completely after about three full race meets I run The other issue with this is that as soon as they wear down a bit the swing shaft starts damaging the diff halves. Do you have any tips on how to make the C-clips and diff halves last longer? It seems that the Xray C-clips last significantly longer, would trying another manufacturer's C-clips help?
What would be really good is if Tamiya went back to the design of the original TRF and TRFMS, where you didn't have C-clips on the rear swing shafts just a ring the clipped to the end of the diff halves. If you got the delrin diff halves for the and MS they seemed to last for a long time. Yes, we do run a lot of shims on the topshaft 4 or 5 0,2mm , normally little more on the right so the spurgear centers little to the left which make the belts run more in the middle of the pullies.
I just started to run outdoor and the diffs get little dirty after some runs. I have tried the sticker covers and they seem to work fine. Only on carpet rubber tyre I use a little rebound. Less rebound has more traction, more rebound car is better for bumpy track. If you want to built the shock without rebound you can't use a sponge. I never use a sponge. We normally drill a hole in the top to reduce as much as possible the rebound to 0, because the air between the bladder and the plastic can go out, also for Pro Stock class I suggest to use little rebound.
With making your shock with 0 rebound the shock shaft always goes little bit back in, it's almost impossible to make it without going back in. Using an older bladder you might have the perfect shock with 0 rebound. I never run the sponge in the shock. With thicker oil you can make the shock without rebound easier then with thin oil, but normally I don't go softer then W in any condition.
Shock position: Lay-in the shock in front give little more initial steering, less steering in the corner. Lay-in shocks in the rear gives little more steering, more rotation less stability.
We always run the shock I rebuild the shock ones every race or practise because a shock always have some leak. I make the shocks always with one o-ring and with the plastic shim, don't use any other grease. I never really tested 2 hole piston, I always run 3 hole and then play with the shock oil. For indoor we always use 1 o-ring, the blue Tamiya one with little bit of rebounds, 5mm.
For outdoors I'm not sure yet, as at the worlds we absolutely run 0 rebound and we even made a hole in the top plastic to get the air out between the top and the rubber cover. I think on a bumpy track you need to run a little rebound but I'm still not sure about this. When you run in cooler condition you should use thinner oil with softer tyres. When the track temp gets hotter go to thicker oil, same springs or softer and go to harder tyres. For better reaction you can try softer oil or little harder springs.
You can try to stood up the rear shock one more. Or go little softer oil in rear, maybe Try 1. I think Viktor used this sway bar at the LRP in the rear and he said it felt more stable. From cold to warm weather the only thing I normally change is shock oil. The warmer it gets the harder shock oil I use. Most races are control tyres anyway but if you have the choice of tyres always go as hard as possible when it gets more hot.
Mike Gee X, Craig McPhee X, Jilles Groskamp X. Vincent Chu. Jilles Groskamp X Lars Weisskopf. Groskamp NFC Racing. Craig McPhee. Lars Weisskopf. Jilles Groskamp. Julien Galineau. Petit RC. Randy Caster. Jilles Groskamp Marc Rheinard. P etit RC. Ed Clark 19t. Christoph Schweizer. Takeshi w LW Suspension. Craig McPhee Vincent Chu. Dai Sakaguchi. Erick Andreassen. Micheal Kaefer. Jimmy Mac.
Maezumi Satoshi Viktor Wilck.
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